Christmas breakfast is, perhaps, the most iconic, emotion-filled, sweet and idiosyncratic meal of the year. Whatever you’re having this year, it’s likely been the same thing from time immemorial. From kidney stew to milk punch, sausage gravy to champagne, whatever it is you’re used to (and it could easily have been what you mother was used to, too), it is inevitably your very own paradigm of what defines a “proper” Christmas breakfast. I am so very specific in that way — or at least I used to be. Forever in my family, Christmas breakfast was my mother’s version of kedgeree: that rich and fragrant Anglo-Indian dish created...
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